In Italy, ragù simply refers to a slow-cooked meat sauce. Bolognese—ragù alla Bolognese—is just one regional variation that originated in Bologna and traditionally incorporates tomatoes, wine, milk, and finely minced meat simmered low and slow until deeply rich and complex. Over time, especially in America, “ragù” became almost synonymous with heavy red sauce. But some of the most beautiful ragù dishes in Italy contain little or no tomato at all.
Ragù Bianco, or “white ragù,” skips the tomatoes entirely and instead leans into aromatics, wine, stock, fresh herbs and the natural richness of the meat itself. The result is something lighter, brighter, and far more herbaceous than a traditional red sauce, while still delivering the same slow-cooked depth and complexity that makes a great ragù so satisfying. And personally, I think it’s one of the best pasta dishes you can make during the hotter months of the year.
One of the biggest misconceptions in cooking wild game is that red meat automatically requires red wine. While big, tannic red wines absolutely have their place—especially in dishes like venison Bourguignon or heavily tomato-based ragùs—white wine can be an incredible pairing for venison when used intentionally. In a dish like ragù Bianco, white wine brings acidity, brightness and a lighter aromatic quality that allows the natural flavor of the venison to stand out instead of getting buried under heavier flavors. When paired with a traditional soffritto of onion, carrot and celery, along with fresh herbs and parmesan, the wine helps build a sauce that feels rich without becoming overly heavy.
This version uses axis deer simply because that’s what I happened to have in the freezer, but this sauce works beautifully with almost any species of venison. Elk, whitetail, mule deer, red stag and fallow would all be excellent choices here. Without the heaviness of tomato sauce, the natural character of the meat really shines through.
Ingredients:
- 2 celery stalks, finely minced
- 1 large carrot, finely minced
- ½ white onion, finely minced
- 5 slices bacon, diced
- 1 lb. ground venison
- ½ cup white wine
- 2 cups venison stock, divided
- ⅔ cup milk, divided
- 1 tbsp fresh thyme, finely chopped
- 1 tbsp fresh rosemary, finely chopped
- 1 ½ tbsp fresh sage, finely chopped
- 1 tsp salt
- 1 tsp black pepper, divided
- ¼ tsp red pepper flakes
- ½ cup heavy cream
- ¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
- Peel of 1 lemon
- Rigatoni, for serving
Instructions:
- Place the diced bacon in a large skillet or Dutch oven over low heat. Cook slowly until the fat has rendered and the bacon is lightly crisp.
- Add the celery, carrot and onion to the bacon fat. Cook over low heat until softened and aromatic, about 8-10 minutes. Remove the soffritto mixture from the pan and set aside.
- Increase the heat slightly and add the ground venison to the pan. Cook until browned, breaking it apart as it cooks.
- Add the white wine to the pan and allow it to reduce for 2-3 minutes. Return the soffritto mixture to the pan along with the thyme, rosemary, and sage. Add 1 cup of venison stock, ⅓ cup milk, 1 tsp salt and ½ tsp black pepper. Stir well, cover and simmer gently for 30 minutes.
- Add the remaining 1 cup venison stock, remaining ⅓ cup milk and remaining ½ tsp black pepper. Simmer covered for another 30 minutes, then uncover and continue cooking for 15 minutes to allow the sauce to slightly reduce.
- Stir in the red pepper flakes, heavy cream, Parmesan cheese and strips of lemon peel. Remove from the heat and allow the lemon peel to steep in the sauce for 5-10 minutes before removing and serving.
- Toss with rigatoni and serve immediately with additional Parmesan if desired.
*Be sure to follow along with Chef Holly’s adventures, and check out her other recipes over at gamegirlgourmet.com.
