Archive for South Africa

South African Safari, Day 5

With a Cape kudu in the salt, I hope we can pull a Cape bushbuck out of Cullen’s hat to complete this six-day safari that was cut short for its scheduled 10 days by the Icelandic ash cloud that delayed my departure from America.

May 27, 2010

South African Safari, Day 4

Kudu hunting in the Eastern Cape is a glassing game. You find a comfortable rock, perch yourself and start probing the shadows for a tell tale hint of a dappled gray, striped hide. Sometimes the giveaway is a an ear flick, others it’s the sun glinting off a horn tip. The sprawling hills are covered with acacia and Karoo shrubs with few open spots, so the glassing game is long and tedious.

May 26, 2010

South African Safari, Day 3

Up at 4:30 to head to the Winterberg Mountains where we hope to find grey (or vaal) rhebok, I tumble groggily from bed and eat a quick breakfast of toast and a brown paste called Boveril, which Cullen tells me is what kept him alive at boarding school. It tastes mildly spicy with a beefy, yeasty sort of flavor that you have to try to appreciate.

May 24, 2010

South African Safari, Day 2

The blood orange glow of the sunrise paints the fat cotton-ball clouds with a crimson blush as professional hunter Cullen Kelly and I settle onto the cold rocks of a promontory overlooking a valley that says “kudu” loud and clear. The bush is classic kudu country. Cullen calls it Karoo scrub brush. It’s thick and dense and impenetrable, just the sort of bush that kudu adore.We see a group of cows and calves move slowly through the bush, their reddish-gray coats glimmering as the rising sun shines on them.

May 20, 2010

South African Safari, Day 1

My bags are packed, I’m ready to go, but I’m not leaving on a jet plane. The Icelandic volcano with the unpronounceable name is spewing more hot air than Al Gore at a global warming conference. My flight to South Africa, routed through London, is cancelled.

May 19, 2010

Best Laid Plans (Part IV)

Nowhere else in the world provides the ups and downs of Africa.

June 11, 2009

Best Laid Plans (Part III)

Nowhere else in the world provides the ups and downs of Africa.

June 10, 2009

Best Laid Plans (Part II)

Nowhere else in the world provides the ups and downs of Africa.

June 10, 2009

Best Laid Plans

Nowhere else in the world provides the ups and downs of Africa.

June 10, 2009

A World in One Country (Part II)

The campfire stories of a hunt shared beneath South African skies give new meaning to a “girls night out."



June 01, 2009

A World in One Country

The campfire stories of a hunt shared beneath South African skies give new meaning to a “girls night out."



June 01, 2009